This is Pony Penning Week in Chincoteague. On Wednesday, the herd of ‘wild’ horses will swim across the channel from Assateague Island to Chincoteague. On Thursday, it’s the famous auction of the foals, and on Friday, the remainder of the herd swims back to the island and another year of the free life.

The question everyone asks is “Where did the ponies come from?” The romantic version is that the ponies are survivors of a shipwrecked Spanish Galleon. Most locals roll their eyes or bristle at that legend. The herd's origin is purely practical. One theory is that the herd is the result of some wily tax dodgers. When the Colonial version of the IRS showed up to check out how much property the islanders owned and would be taxed on, the Chincoteaguers moved some of their horses out to the island. Once the tax collectors left, the islanders retrieved their ponies. Inevitably, some of them wandered off and weren’t found or decided that they liked beach life and refused to be caught.

The least romantic, but most likely, story is that the early settlers turned their horses, sheep, cattle, and hogs loose on the island to graze. Once a year, the settlers rounded up all of their livestock. Apparently, it was as much a party as it was serious work. In this version, the herd formed from horses that weren't collected. There's a lot of scrub and isolated terrain on Assateague and the settlers were only willing and able to explore so much of it.

There is some validity to the Spanish Galleon story, though. John Amrheim, Jr. found a large body of evidence that there was a galleon that ran aground on Assateague in 1750. He’s pretty sure he knows where it is, but various state, federal, and international complications prevent anyone from proving it one way or the other. (The Hidden Galleon, New Maritia Press).

Even if he’s right and there were horses that survived the wreck, the ponies we now know aren’t their progeny. A few decades later, a massive hurricane swept across Delmarva. The period accounts make Andrew, Katrina, and Rita sound like summer showers. What sounds like the storm surge flowed through the streets of Berlin, which is 8 miles inland now and was further inland back then.  Damage was devastating and total. The barrier islands were completely inundated. Any ponies or any other wildlife was swept away. Assateague was pony-less until the settlers needed to hide their assets.

The pony swim is Wednesday, July 28. The ponies make the crossing sometime between 10-11AM, depending on the tide and the winds. Get to the island early to find a place on shore to watch. Boating rules are very strict. The auction is Thursday, July 29, from 8-Noon. The swim back on Friday is also in the morning. The time depends on the tides. For complete information:

http://www.chincoteaguechamber.com/pony-events/ev-pony.html

July 25-31

Kent Island Fireman’s Carnival, Stevensville. Nightly 6-11PM. All the usual small town, country carnival favorites: rides, games, funnel cake. Supports the Volunteer Fire Department.

July 27

Riverfront Concert, Washington College, Chestertown. Come out to enjoy the eclectic artistry of Bob Zentz. Folk, traditional, Celtic, and Maritime (including the regional favorites, “This Old Bay” and “The Last Skipjack” ) music played on the concertina, autoharp, and hurdy gurdy. At the Custom House lawn, Water & High St. Free 6:30-8:00. www.starrcenter.washcoll.edu

July 28-30

Pony Penning & Auction, Chincoteague. The annual round up of the ‘wild’ ponies from Assateague. They swim across the channel on the 28th, the auction of the foals and yearlings is on the 29th, the remaining herd swims back on the 30th. The swim is the morning of the 28th. The time depends on the tide and the winds, but the buses from the parking area at the school to the water start running at around 6AM. Re-reading “Misty of Chincoteague” is not required, but is recommended. Proceeds support the Volunteer Fire Department. www.chincoteaguechamber.com

July 30-31

Live Jazz & Art on the Lawn, Bayside (Fenwick Island). Half a dozen jazz artists and groups perform, many more local artists display their work. Friday 4-8 PM, Saturday 12-8. Free. www.ffeemanstage.org

July 31

Wheels on the Waterfront Cruise-in, Crisfield. Classic cars and hot rods roll from W. Main from 9th to the city dock from 5 –dark. Free.

Movies at the Dock, Crisfield. When the Cruise-in is over, settle down to watch “How to Train a Dragon” at the City Dock, 9PM, Free. Bring your own lawn chair and munchies.

Both events: www.crisfieldevents.com

August 1

Dog Day of Summer Festival, Tails n Tubs Self-Service Dog Wash, Salisbury. Celebration of Man’s Best Friend with sponsored dog walk, canine contests, demonstrations of agility, obedience, dog dancing, and K-9 units. Raffles, vendors. Proceeds benefit the Lilliput Farm “Rebuild the Barn” fund. 10-4. www.dogdayofsummer.wordpress.com

All-you-can-eat Breakfast, Galena Fire House. Popular with locals and visitors and for good reason. Start the weekend with all of the things that make breakfast worth eating: pancakes, eggs, bacon, coffee. $7 for adults $3 for kids. 7:30-11 AM.

Swamp Canoe Tour, Trap Pond State Park. Early in the morning, the herons, geese, osprey, and land critters are more active. Instruction before the guided tour for those who need it. $14 per person. Reservations required. Call 302-875-5153. www.destateparks.com

Abstract Fine Art Exhibit, Art Institute and Gallery, Salisbury. 212 W. Main St. 11-3. Free. www.aiandg.org

“Oxford Goose” art contest and exhibit. The subject matter is ‘goose.’ All interpretations, all media – painting, sculpture, needlepoint, carving. Gallery 214, 214 N. Morris St.

So I’m driving up Rt. 13 on a Friday afternoon, en route to a friend’s ordination in New Jersey. It’s two o’clock – past lunchtime. I’m debating if I should stop and eat a real lunch now and skip dinner, load up with junk snacks at the Royal Farms, wait until I get to the hotel and eat a real meal, or subject myself to the culinary self-abuse of fast food at a rest stop on the New Jersey Turnpike.

As I drive through Greenwood, my Durango veers into the left lane and turns into the gravel driveway at the Greenwood BBQ stand, drawn like a heat-seeking missile toward the rich aroma of grilling chicken coming from the cinder block kitchen.

Roadside BBQ stands are one of the glories of Delmarva dining, right up there with crab cakes, Smith Island Cake, and EVO beer. Usually run by a civic group and often operating out of a portable trailer, they fire up on weekends, serving chicken cooked with the group’s special, unique, highly prized, proprietary, we’ain’t-givin’-away-the-recipe sauce.

Most of the places are truly roadside stands, carry-out only. The Greenwood operation is a little more elaborate. For $6, the ladies of VFW Post 7478 fix a carryout box with ½ chicken, roll, and pickle. You also get your choice of a bag of chips. Large dispensers of a couple of sauces are on a side table. There’s a soda machine and picnic tables under a large pavilion. A steady banter of gossip flows between the ladies, the customers, and the cooks (all men. It’s always and only all men, whatever the location). Half of the customer s are regulars; half are casual passers-by. All are united by the finger-lickin’ joy of eating hot, juicy BBQ chicken.

Most of the regular places along Rt. 50/13/11/404 advertise their cooking weekends on marquees. But keep your eyes open for the impromptu stands that fire up at convenient intersections. They fire up early in the morning, sell until the grill is barren, then pack up and vanish – leaving nothing in the wind but the lingering scent of hickory smoke. There’s one on the southbound side of Rt. 50 between Easton and Trappe. I see him early on Saturday mornings sometimes, but he’s always gone by the time I swing by.

I’ll catch up with him sooner or later. In the meantime, there’s the stand in Pocomoke City, the one on Philip Morris Rd. just east of Salisbury, the one just past the railroad tracks in Linkwood…

So many chickens, so little time…